Agra Fort - India's Greatest Fortress

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Being the most important fort during the Mughal Empire and historically recorded many significant events that occurred centuries ago, we chose Agra Fort aka Red Fort of Agra to be our first destination in the city of Taj. In fact, this was our first visit to a heritage site for this trip. Located by the River Yamuna, built by King Akbar around 1570 A.D. and about 1 km from the Taj Mahal East gate, Agra Fort can be easily reached from the town center. We got to its south entrance (the only entrance) by auto-rickshaw for Rs.50 from our hotel.

From outside the fortress, the most obvious criteria of the monument was the red sandstone structure and the Mughal-style Amar Singh Gate (Akbar Darwaza). This is the only gate that opened to public access.

Right under Amar Singh Gate

Previously known as Akbari gate, it was later changed to Amar Singh Gate by Shah Jahan. Another gate, the Delhi Gate used to be the entrance specially for kings and it leads to another section called Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate). Founded by King Akbar the Great, son of Humayun, Agra Fort was the greatest fortress of all. It is the greatest because all great Mughal kings used to reside here and some governed their kingdoms from here, the capital of Mughal Empire.

There were plenty of street sellers trying to make a living by selling variety of souvenir items, books, and postcards just outside the Amar Singh Gate. There were also a few guys who introduced themselves as guides and they would show their authority cards to confirm that. I heard some offered Rs.50 per hour and some other for Rs.200 per visit. We didn't need no guide as we can always check the fact of any monuments from the Net or guidebooks. One guy even came with a very ridiculous approach by telling us that it will be a waste of time without hiring any of them. Ciitt (spit).

Get a ticket before you enter

Each visitor should buy a ticket from the ticket counter located to the left after passing Amar Singh Gate. The ticket cost Rs.300 per person, for foreigners. Locals only pay Rs.20 each. That's a huge difference huh. If you look like an Indian, try to speak Hindi to the ticket guy. You might be paying the local fare. As we walked through the fortress entrance towards the ticket checking post, several men still offering their guide services. Only after our tickets checked, none of those people could get pass this point and we were finally free.

Approaching Jehangiri Mahal

Jehangiri Mahal

Without further delay, we ventured deeper into the fort before we reached at Jehangiri Mahal, a big palace-like building with Mughal architecture. This palace is made mostly of red sandstone and was the most significant building during Akbar's reign. 

One of Jehangiri's towers

Right in front of Jehangiri Mahal was a big bath vat (Jahangir's Hauz) which was built in 1610 A.D. This mobile circular bath tank measured 5 feet high and 8 feet in diameter.

I first thought it was a big cooking pot when first looked at it but quickly my question was answered (I heard a guide told a group of tourists). On both sides of the palace stood an octagonal tower. We walked passed its gateway into a courtyard where we could see the Taj Mahal from a distance. The view was breathtaking even in a hazy afternoon.

Jehangiri on Yamuna side

Dance India dance?

Khas Mahal & Anguri Bagh

Exited Jehangiri Mahal into a white marble building. It was Khas Mahal, a gift from Shah Jahan to his two daughters. Khas Mahal consists of two pavilions on each side separated by a central hall and marble wall. In fact the building was entirely built of white marble up to the ceiling. It was then painted in gold and blue, the royal colors. But I saw only white and some brownish stains (of water or sands) on most parts.

Door to somewhere?

There's also a water pond right in front of the central hall. The open space facing Khas Mahal is the Anguri Bagh (Garden of grapes) which was an idea of Shah Jahan as a private garden for his royal ladies.

Anguri Bagh with Khas Mahal on the background

Musamman Burj

We walked westward to an area where quite a number of tourists were busy taking pictures. As a result of poor signage, I had no idea what the place was at the moment and almost skipped it completely. That particular structure was where Emperor Shah Jahan had lived for years, imprisoned by his own son, Aurangzeb before he died. This place is a double storey pavilion with an octagonal dome called Musamman Burj (Jasmine Tower). The walls and pillars of this pavilion were decorated with colorful arts including pietra dura, which can also be found inside Taj Mahal. However, public were not allowed into the tower building.

Famous pietra dura

Shish Mahal

So we walked past a few tightly closed doors. From the map, I guessed those were Shish Mahal (Glass Palace) and perhaps Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private audience) as well. When I peek inside Shish Mahal, it's actually a bathing room or hammam. I could see some glowing glasses or mirrors which were used as part of the structure, especially on its door. According to some, those mirrors were imported from Aleppo, Syria

Diwan-i-Am

We followed the pathway to another section of the fort and saw the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of public audience) on our right. This piece of structure was built by Shah Jahan too and it was used as a place where the emperor addressed the public. This hall is easy to spot as it has plenty of unique arches and pillars (40 of them). There is a tomb of someone right in front of this hall but I don't remember exactly the detail.

Almost empty hall

From a distant we could see Nagina Masjid's (Gem Mosque) domes on the other side which entry was prohibited. Maybe some renovations were in progress or something. Nevermind, we were then delighted by some cute squirrel-like (I guess they're squirrel) creatures who were hungry for food.

Come to papa

Not long after that, we walked out of Agra Fort as time did not permit us for further exploration inside this old, greatest fortification structure of old India.

Complex

Filed Under: Asia / Oceania

Comments

biqqueMalaysiabiqque said:

info explode! WOW! now i know the story Laughing

travelistaMalaysiatravelista said:

luckily there's wiki...

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